Anyone who has ever owned a pair of leather work boots or outdoor gear has probably bought a jar of mink oil at one point or another. But is it doing what it claims to do? Mink oil is one of those myths that has been repeated so many times that we now wholeheartedly believe to be true, to the point where we rarely even question it. But what is the truth about mink oil? Is it good for your leather? The short answer is no.
Mink oil is an animal byproduct derived from the fatty layer under the mink’s fur. North American trappers discovered how it would moisturize and waterproof their boots, and we have used it ever since. It is a byproduct of the fur industry, much like how leather is a byproduct of the food industry. The animal hides are harvested, and before they move on to other industries, the hides are scrapped, and the layer of fat collected is what your mink oil is made from. The fat is boiled and rendered until the only thing left is the oil, which is then bottled and sold as a leather conditioner.
Because leather is porous, it can easily absorb oils that are applied to it, much like a sponge. Mink oil, being an animal byproduct, is very easy to absorb as it has a structure that is very close to the natural sebum created by skin. When applied to leather, it will penetrate deep into the leather, adding moisture to the dried fibers and helping it to remain supple for a time. And that is where its benefits stop.
While it is true that mink oil will create a protective barrier over your leather, helping to prevent it from absorbing water, it also prevents it from breathing. Leather needs to breathe to keep its integrity. The protective layer created by mink oil can clog the pores to stop moisture from getting in, but it also stops moisture from getting out. Creating the perfect environment for mold and bacteria to grow. It also leaves a film on the surface of your leather, attracting dust and dirt. And while not necessarily a con for some people, Mink oil will darken your leather. With regular, continuous use, it can permanently alter the color of your leather goods.
The last hard truth is that mink oil oxidizes over time. Meaning that over time it will go hard, causing your leather to harden. And the oxidised oils deep in the pores of your leather create crystalline structures which will damage the leather fibers, weakening it and making it more prone to cracking. This means that your work boots with perfect care and regular mink oiling last only 4-5 years. Rather than the 10- 15 years that can be achieved with plant-based leather conditioners.
So what should you do? Stay away from animal-based oils such as mink oil and opt for plant-based alternatives for conditioning your leather. If you need a waterproofing aspect, consider beeswax. It will give you almost the same level of waterproofing and will allow your leather to breathe, preventing the buildup of moisture deep within your leather, which can cause mold and mildew. If you don’t want to buy a fancy balm, consider making your own. In my Leather Balm, I use Beeswax, Cacao butter, and grapeseed oil. The cacao butter and grape seed oil are fantastic moisturizers that penetrate deep into the leather and condition it, while the beeswax helps to waterproof it… Plus, it smells like chocolate. If you’d like to try it for yourself, you can get it here. But any beeswax-based balm will work just as well for waterproofing your leather. Stay away from paraffin-wax-based balms; it doesn’t have the same breathability and tends to sit on top of your leather, giving you no true benefit.